Biking - Ape Canyon

Test Your Skill at Any Level

If you haven’t ridden Ape Canyon, add it to your short-list. This Pacific Northwest classic puts you right on the shoulder of an active volcano.

Beginning at 2,800 feet, Ape Canyon Trail 234 opens with spectacular views of the Muddy River Lahar that rolled down the southeast side of St. Helens during the 1980 eruption. Within a few hundred yards, the trail launches into a five-mile climb through old-growth forest. The ascent ends at Ape Canyon, which offers broad vistas of Mount Adams and the Smith Creek Basin. Stop here to get your seventh wind and snap a few pictures.

In less than a quarter-mile, you will reach an intersection with Loowit Trail 216. Bear north along the east side of the mountain. After traversing several rocky washes, you will emerge onto the Plains of Abraham. The lunar-like Plains can be soft in dry weather, but the tread is good in most places. If you don't have a headwind, the two-mile ride across the Plains is fast, flat, and easy. When you reach an intersection, head north on Abraham Trail 216D toward Windy Ridge.

After switch-backing through several ravines that are thick with lupine in the summer months, you will reach a bare, knife-edge ridge that is one of the highlights of the ride. The terrain slopes off on each side, then plummets for several hundred feet. It’s important to maintain your focus on the trail, even if your legs ignore the command to stop wobbling.

At 9.5 miles, you will reach a series of wooden steps. If your tank is nearing Empty, turn around here and go back for a 19-mile total. Another two miles on logging road will take you to the Windy Ridge viewpoint where you can soak in a great view of Spirit Lake. But keep in mind that this means carrying your bike up the steps when you head back.

When you reach Ape Canyon on the return trip, remember to be careful on the five-mile descent to the trailhead since you will probably meet hikers and bikers on their way up.

Experienced riders may choose to extend their adventure by completing the rugged Smith Creek loop. At just under 30 miles, it’s only seven miles longer than riding to Windy Ridge and back. But don’t be fooled—the technical and aerobic demands are far greater. Before choosing this route, be sure to check the most current trail reviews because Smith Creek can be so overgrown that the fun-factor is minimal.

Once you’ve reached the Windy Ridge viewpoint, travel 1.6 miles on FS99 to the Smith Creek Trailhead. You will drop from 4,200 to 2,400 in less than four miles. This is wicked stuff, with plenty of loose pumice and difficult switchbacks. Keep your eyes open for abandoned bike parts. (If you look real closely, you might even find abandoned biker parts).

The biggest obstacles in the Smith Creek Basin are a few small creek crossings and low hanging limbs. The lower end is smooth and fun. You will need to ford the Muddy River where it intersects with Smith Creek. Take a few minutes to see if there is a makeshift log bridge. If not, you will have to get your feet wet.

The 5.7-mile climb back to the trailhead on FR8322 and FR83 seems to go on forever. You gain back 1,200 feet—from 1,600 to 2,800—but it feels like more.

From Interstate 5, take the Lewis River Road (503) east from Woodland for 34 miles to FR83. Go 11 miles on FR83 to the Ape Canyon trailhead. A Northwest Forest Pass is required.

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